Post #144 - Colombia - Southwestern Andes - Valle del Cauca

Quick note - This is meant more as a permanent online reference than it is a quick blogpost, so it is very long and detailed. This account - as well as summaries from all the places I've visited, Colombian and other - will be archived in the International Birding Resources tab under the main banner header of this blog. I hope you will use that resource to plan your own birding adventures!

Blue-winged Mountain Tanager at Finca Alejandria

Outline

Valle del Cauca Introduction

Valle Logistics
Getting there
When to visit
Where to stay
Guides

Key Valle birds
Colombian endemics
Chocó endemics

Valle birding sites (this is far from exhaustive)
Río Bravo
Yotoco
Río Sonso
Dapa-Chicoral and La Minga
San Antonio, Kilometer 18, and Finca Alejandria (with Araucana Lodge)
Anchicaya
San Cipriano
Pance
Tenerife

Valle Introduction
Valle del Cauca (or just 'Valle') is fast becoming one of the most popular birding destinations in Colombia. Access through Cali's international airport is easy, infrastructure is generally good, and an astounding array of tropical birds can be found with a half-day's drive of that gateway city. Accommodations are modern, logistics are mostly straightforward, and it would be easy for birders to arrive, rent a car, and drive themselves to all the birding sites I'll describe in just 7 or 8 days. For now anyway, Valle birding is mostly synonymous with the areas north and west of Cali, but the entire department - like everywhere in Colombia - is loaded with birds.

Looking at the topographic map above, we can see than Valle encompasses several major geographic features: the coast, the Pacific Lowlands, the Western Andes, the Cauca River Valley, and the Central Andes. When summed, those diverse habitats hold over 1,000 species in a department about the size of New Jersey! The Pacific Slope of the Western Andes and the adjacent lowlands are part of the Chocó Bioregion, a stretch of mostly coastal forest and biodiversity hotspot stretching from Southern Panama to Northwestern Peru (below, left). The Chocó claims more than 70 endemic birds, and the areas west of Cali - Anchicaya, San Cipriano - afford birders the chance to view many of those special species. Note - There is also a Chocó Department within Colombia (map at below right). That governmental unit lies almost completely with the Chocó Bioregion, but the two should not be confused.

To the east of the Chocó and the Western Andes, the rainshadowed Cauca Valley present some drier habitat in which a completely different complement of birds are found, and there is access to the high elevation Central Andean paramo at Tenerife. However, I'd suggest venturing south in neighboring Cauca Department (next post) to visit Purace National Park if you have a few extra days. Purace's paramo is really spectacular and well worth the half-day's (4-5 hour) drive to reach it. Popayán also feels more distinctly Colombian than the more international Cali, and I think many visitors would enjoy that cultural diversion.

Beyond pure birdwatching, Valle offers excellent bird photography opportunities, especially at La Minga and Finca Alejandria where natural perches have been thoughtfully placed around the attracting feeders. Sonso does not have feeders, but its wide sight lines, larger water birds, and usually good light make for decent photography in a field-type of setting. 

Valle Logistics
Getting There
Cali's modern and international airport makes getting to Valle a snap. It's easy to connect through Bogotá, and a number of carriers fly direct from other international destinations. For example, on my last trip, I went San Francisco > Panama City > Cali on Copa Airlines. Many of the major car rental outfits (Avis, Alamo, etc) have branches at the airport, but many birders just hire a private driver with his own vehicle as that absolves them of driving and navigating. The way that generally works is that you pay a flat daily fee for the driver and the vehicle. That fee varies with the size of the vehicle and includes the driver and gas as well as the driver's lodging and food since he'll be traveling with you. It might sound expensive, but it's hardly more than renting a car (which is itself surprisingly expensive). Contact Jovani Flórez at Solutions in Colombia (solutionsincolombia@gmail.com, whatsapp +57 311 227 1259 or +57 320 835 9104). They are the 'go-to' for Colombian birding transportation and have experience carting birders all around the country.

When to visit
Short Answer: Late-November through March, especially January and Feburary. June through August can also be decent.
Long Answer: Rainfall is the primary consideration when planning a visit to Valle, Colombia, or anywhere else in the tropics, and the graph below shows the average monthly rainfall in Cali at elevation 1,000 meters (3,300 feet). This data was obtained from this website. It's actually really cool, so check it out if you want to get your nerd on!

There is a low point in July-August and another one mid-December through mid-March. At first glance July-August might seem the clear choice, but it important to remember that Cali - in the Cauca Valley - is at a topographical lowpoint between the Western and Central Andes, higher elevation areas that receive more rain at all points in the year. While Cali is driest July-August, late-November through March (the Andean Summer) is generally better in the mountains. The inter-Andean Valleys - where Cali finds itself - are also hottest in July-August, so that's another reason to visit between late-November to March. Lastly, total trip lists tend to be higher November to March since the North American neotropical migrants are present. So, my first choice would be to visit in the middle of the Andean Summer - January or February. Just remember, it's the tropics; there's always going to be some rain! 

Where to stay

There is no shortage of suitable accommodations in and around Cali, and I will highlight a number of lodge-type properties in the mountains outside/above the city. If those are booked, if you have limited time, or if you want to stay in the city, many wonderful birding spots can be reached with an hour or two of driving from downtown. I'll make more specific lodging recommendations as I introduce the individual birding sites.

Guides

I'd start by contacting Birdwatch Colombia (http://www.colombiabirdwatch.com/), a Cali-based birding company that has experience in Valle and everywhere else. Run by Oregon transplant Chris Calonje, they can sort you out with whatever you need. I've also worked with Ibagué-based Hernan Arias and highly recommend him as well. He knows all the birds, has unbelievable ears, is familiar with the entire country, speaks English fluently, and is an all around great guy. You can contact him at hedarar@yahoo.com or at +57 318 385 3676.

Key Valle birds
Compared to other regions within Colombia, the Southwestern Andes do not hold as many true Colombian endemics. What the area offers instead is a huge number of Chocó endemics, most of which are shared with only neighboring Ecuador a few hundred miles to the south.

Immature male Multicolored Tanager at Finca Alejandria

Colombian endemics that occur in Valle with some regularity:
Cauca Guan - Slopes of Western and Central Andes (Valle, Risaralda, Quindio, Cauca)
Colombian Chachalaca - Slopes of inter-Andean valleys
Chestnut Wood-Quail - Mostly slopes of Western and Central Andres, a few in Eastern Andes
Grayish Piculet - Cauca Valley and adjacent slopes
Parker's Antbird - Mostly Central Andes with a small population in Eastern Andes
Apical Flycatcher - Widespread in drier inter-Andean valleys and adjacent slopes
Multicolored Tanager - Western Andes; Risaralda and Antioquia in Central Andes
Crested Ant-Tanager - West slope of Western Andes

The very noisy Colombian Chachalaca will be found without dedicated searching. Apical Flycatcher and Grayish Piculet are common on the Andean slopes and in the Cauca Valley, Laguna Sonso for example. Multicolored Tanager is fairly common in forests between 1,000 and 2,000 meters, and they come to feeders at La Minga and Finca Alejandria if all else fails. Crested Ant-Tanager is often present at Anchicaya, Pance, and Pichindé above Cali. Also keep your eyes open for that bird at Río Bravo. Chestnut Wood-Quail is likely to be heard anywhere on the western slope of the Western Andes, but getting eyes on it is very difficult. There are smattered Valle sightings of Cauca Guan and Parker's Antibird - mostly around Yotoco and Anchicaya, respectively - but both species are more reliably sought farther north towards Pereira and Manizales. For the remainder of this piece, E = Colombian endemic.

As for Chocó endemics, at least 40-45 can be found in Valle, all in mountains above Cali and/or on the Pacific Slope. These include Berlepsch's Tinamou, Baudo Guan, Velvet-purple Coronet, Violet-tailed Sylph, Blue-tailed Trogon, Toucan and Five-colored Barbets, Stub-tailed Antbird, Chocó Tapaculo, Pacific Flatbill, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, Club-winged Manakin, Scarlet-and-white Tanager, Glistening-green Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager, Rufous-throated Tanager, Yellow-collared Chlorophonia, and others. Anchicaya is by far the best place to search for most of these, but some low-elevation specialists can also be found at San Cipriano. For the remainder of this post CE = Chocó endemic.

Valle Birding Sites

Río Bravo (eBird Hotspot)
Río Bravo is located about 2 driving hours north of Cali. Formerly inaccessible due to the political conflict, the valley and dirt road that descends it are now safe for visitors and make for a nice introduction to Southwestern Andean birding. Using a mix of driving and walking, birders can descend from 1,400 meters to 1,200 meters (4,600 feet to 3,900 feet). The top part of that road is in very good shape and can be managed in even small rental cars, but high clearance would be better for the lower and less maintained stretches. 4-wheel drive, as always, would be helpful but is not required. Species present at Río Bravo include Chestnut Wood-Quail (E), Andean Motmot, Red-headed Barbet, Golden-olive Woodpecker, Grayish Piculet (E), Bar-crested Antshrike, Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner, Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, and a host of colorful tanagers headlined by Crested Ant-Tanager (E), Multicolored Tanager (E), and Rufous-throated Tanager (CE). Only ~210 species have been eBirded from the road ('caretera'), but that number will swell with more coverage. It would be easy to spend a full morning walking/driving downhill through the reserve, and those who get tired can always rest in the accompanying vehicle. It does get warm later in the morning, so try to arrive as close to sunrise as possible. I'd recommend staying at La Huerta and using that base to explore Río Bravo, Yotoco, and Laguna Sonso.

Río Bravo

La Huerta Hotel

Yotoco (eBird Hotspot, website)
Located just 15 minutes from La Huerta, Yotoco (1,600 meters, 4,600 feet) offers slightly a slightly different birding experience than Río Bravo. There is decent birding in the large courtyard at the reserve entrance, but most of the action is on a series of very narrow and sometimes steep trails running through the reserve's beautiful primary habitat. Though it hasn't yet been eBirded from Río Bravo, Colombian Chachalaca (E) is common at Yotoco. Other residents include Little Tinamou, Collared Trogon, Grayish Piculet (E), White-bibbed Manakin, Speckle-breasted Wren, Plain Antvireo, Slaty Antwren, Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, Buff-rumped Warbler, and Blue-necked Tanager. Though it is much better sought farther north, Cauca Guan (E) has made periodic appearances at Yotoco, so the reserve probably represents the best - but still long - chance of finding that bird in Valle. Thick foliage makes birding challenging, but over 300 species have been recorded in the reserve. There is onsite lodging, and it's a good option for those looking for something cheaper or more rustic than La Huerta. There's no restaurant, but meals can be arranged if you contact the reserve manager ahead of time. Access is super easy as Yotoco is right off the main road. That makes it a great place to stop en route to somewhere else. If there's lot's of action great; if not, just continue.

Laguna Sonso (eBird Hotspot, website)
Ready for some easy birding? Drive the 30 minutes from La Huerta to Laguna Sonso just outside Buga. Situated in the drier Cauca River Valley at 1,000 meters (3,300 feet), the preserve presents very diverse birdlife. Impoundments are home to Purple Gallinule, Wattled Jacana, Cocoi Heron, Striated Heron, Bare-faced Ibis, Pinnated Bittern, Snail Kite, Amazon Kingfisher, and Greater Ani, and surrounding secondary growth hosts Ruby-topaz Hummingbird, Gray-cowled Wood-Rail, Spectacled Parrotlet, Red-crowned Woodpecker, Grayish Piculet (E), Jet Antbird, Striped Cuckoo, Apical Flycatcher (E), and a wide array of colorful tanagers and orioles. Nearly 400 species have been recorded at Sonso, and there will be more than enough action to fill up an entire morning. There is also a visitor's center of sorts, as well as some educational facilities, so Sonso feels a bit more legitimate than less developed reserves (Río Bravo, for example). There are reserve guides, and they can help you navigate the area. Trails aren't well-signed, but the area is flat and open enough that it would be difficult to get lost even without a guide (famous last words, right?). Sonso gets very hot by 10-11am, particularly in the driest months of June, July, and August, so visit as early in the day as possible, preferably 6-11am or so.

Sonso views

Dapa-Chicoral and La Minga (eBird Hotspots: Via a Dapa roadside, Chicoral roadside, La Minga, La Minga website)
Dapa-Chicoral is a ridge of intact Andean Cloud Forest about an hour's drive above/outside Cali. The front side of the ridge is called Dapa and the backside is called Chicoral; La Minga, a small guesthouse/ecolodge, sits just over the road crest (2,000 meters, 6,600 feet) on the Chicoral side. It's a steep and twisty 15km from Arroyo Hondo to reach that crest on Via a Dapa. The road turns to dirt about 4-5km from the crest, and the birding from that point up-and-over is fantastic. The entrance road to La Minga is the best birding of all but is private property and requires prior arrangements/fees. I highly suggest visiting La Minga and it's great feeder array. Everyone - and  especially photographers - will appreciate the close views of many species, and the lodge porch is a great place to relax after a morning of walking. All vehicles will be fine on the main Dapa-Chicoral Road, but high clearance is recommended for the La Minga driveway. I did it in a small rental car at a snail's pace and still bottomed-out multiple times! 

As for birds the entire area is great. Regularly occurring birds include Golden-headed and Crested Quetzals, Red-headed Barbet, Yellow-vented Woodpecker, Streak-capped Treehunter, Red-faced Spinetail, Golden-winged Manakin, Barred Becard, Black-winged Saltator, and an endless array of tanagers headlined by the endemic Multicolored. Up to a dozen species of hummingbirds can be observed on the La Minga feeders, so there's no end to the action. La Minga only sleeps 6 guests, but small groups should definitely consider spending a night or two. It's that good (and so is the food)! One cautionary note - The main road is quiet during the week but can be a bit dangerous on weekends when (obnoxious?) motorcycle enthusiasts speed up and down the road. If you go on the weekend, go very early and keep your visit short. Or just bird La Minga the whole time.

Red-headed Barbet at La Minga

San Antonio Forest (eBird Hotspot), Kilometer 18 Cloud Forest (eBird Hotspot), and Finca Alejandria (eBird Hotspot)
These three sites are clustered around the small town of Kilometer 18 (the town is named by its measured position along Road 19), so I am going to treat them together for convenience. All continue the cloud forest theme of Dapa-Chicoral and offer more chances at species characteristic of that habitat. San Antonio Forest (Bosque de San Antonio) is a publicly accessible trail along which nearly 400 species of bird have been observed. Birders might encounter Colombian Chachalaca (E), Chestnut Wood-Quail (E), Golden-headed Quetzal, Collared Trogon, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Spillmann's Tapaculo, Montane Foliage-gleaner, Green-and-black Fruiteater, Marble-Faced Bristle-Tyrant, Whiskered Wren, Citrine Warbler, or Golden-rumped Euphonia on the 4Km round-trip walk to the antenna and back. A morning at San Antonio would couple well with an afternoon at Kilometer 18 Cloud Forest (Bosque de Niebla Kilometer 18) and Finca Alejandria (El Paraiso de Los Colibries). Finca Alejandria's unbelievable feeder array is probably the main attraction, and birders can expect close-views of hummers such as Long-tailed Sylph, Bronzy Inca, Buff-tailed Coronet, Booted Racket-tail, Purple-throated Woodstar, Andean Emerald, and Steely-vented Hummingbird. Tanagers are also well-represented with Flame-rumped, Blue-gray, Golden-naped, Saffron-crowned, Golden, Scrub, and Multicolored (E) making regular appearances. Relaxing in front of the feeders is the perfect way to relax after a morning of walking. Those with additional energy should bird the lightly-trafficked entrance road. It's that entrance road which is called the Kilometer 18 Cloud Forest, and along it birders should look for Southern Emerald Toucanet, Masked Trogon, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, Scarlet-fronted Parakeet, Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant, Chestnut-bellied Wren, Ashy-throated Chlorospingus, Green Honeycreeper, Metallic-green Yanager, and over 300 others!

Though it is not open at writing (Oct 2018), Araucana Lodge will be the place to stay when it opens in early 2019. The owners are professional bird guides (http://www.colombiabirdwatch.com/), and they have designed the entire property to serve birders. It will be large enough for tour groups and offers easy access to San Antonio, Kilometer 18, Finca Alejandria, Anchicaya, and San Cipriano (those last two highlighted below).

Golden Tanager at Finca Alejandria

Anchicaya (ebird Hotspot for Upper and eBird Hotspot for Lower)
The Anchicaya Watershed is a gigantic valley descending from Andean Cloud Forest at 1,600 meters (5,200 feet) west towards the Pacific Lowlands at 200 meters (650 feet). Abandoned by all but a minimum of local traffic, the Old Buenaventura Road offers birders nearly 500 species.  Chocó birds are the biggest attractions, and at least 45 of the 70+ Chocó endemics have been recorded along the road. The upper portion of the valley is the most accessible and hosts Toucan Barbet, Chocó Tapaculo, Nariño Tapacula, Orange-breasted Fruiteater, Club-winged Manakin, Black Solitaire, Glistening-green Tanager, Purplish-mantled Tanager, and Gray-and-gold Tanager - all Chocó endemics shared only with neighboring Ecuador. Black-chinned Mountain-Tanager is both a Chocó and a Colombian endemic and is usually in the area is well. A small entry fee (bring small bills) gains access to the feeders at El Descanso (eBird Hotspot) where birders are likely to encounter White-whiskered Hermit, Violet-tailed Sylph, and Empress Brilliant. The road is paved for 10Km beyond/below El Descanso but deteriorates quickly from that point. High clearance will be needed and 4-wheel drive is highly recommended. It's probably advisable to bring enough food for the entire day.

Anchicaya

Reaching Lower Anchicaya is a big production, one requiring not just a suitable vehicle but also the 5-6 slow driving hours it will require to get in and out. There is a small research station where well-connected and persistent birders can arrange to stay (anchicaya@icesi.edu.co), but otherwise Lower Anchicaya must be done as a painfully long day-trip that is best for hardcore listers. Those that make the trek could be rewarded with any of Baudo Guan, Dusky Pigeon, Blue-tailed Trogon, Five-colored Barbet, Chocó Toucan, Rose-faced Parrot, Stub-tailed Antbird, Chocó Tyrannulet, Long-wattled Umbrellabird, Black-tipped Cotinga, and Scarlet-and-white, Gold-chested, Blue-whiskered, and Lemon-spectacled Tanagers. For those who can't handle the logistics or commitment of getting into Lower Anchicaya, San Cipriano offers a viable alternative.

Female Lyre-tailed Nightjar on nest on Old Buenaventura Road

San Cipriano (eBird Hotspot)
An isolated river community, San Cipriano offers easier access to the Pacific Lowlands than the Old Buenaventura Road through Anchicaya. However, 'easier' is still a relative term, and accessing San Cipriano is a bit of a chore - but a really fun one! That's because the only way to access the area is via the engineering marvel locally known as the 'Bruhita'. Literally translated as 'little witch', the motorcycle-train-skateboard hybrid must be experienced to be believed. Nothing like this would EVER be permitted/sanctioned in the US, but it was a hell of a lot of fun shooting through the jungle on it! It looks held together mostly by rope and chewing gum, but the ride was pretty smooth and felt safe enough. The ride is about 20-25 minutes, mostly at ~15 MPH.

Upon arriving in San Cipriano, birders should walk the main gravel road south out of town. It's worth noting that the town is outwardly very poor, but don't let that fool you. The people are very friendly and the town is perfectly safe. San Cipriano is popular with backpackers, so the locals have seen lots of tourists. Beyond the Chocó birds highlighted in the Lower Anchicaya section, birders should be on the lookout for Common Potoo, Black-breasted Puffbird, Spot-crowned Barbet, Pacific Antwren, Chestnut-backed Antbird, Thicket Antpitta, Black-chested Jay, and Tawny-crested Tanager. With 350-plus species recorded in San Cipriano, I could go on forever.

Bridge to Bruhita terminal (left) and San Cipriano (right)

Because the Pacific Lowlands get hot and muggy by mid-morning, it is imperative that San Cipriano birders arrive between 6:30 and 7:00am and explore the area before the birds down. That will require some work as the Bruhita doesn't usually start running until later in the morning. Special arrangements will need to be made ahead of time - and probably by someone local. Birders can stay in Buenaventura the night before, but lodging in that rather run down city isn't ideal. The opening of Araucana will solve both of those problems as they will be just 75 minutes from the Bruhitas and have the local connections to order up the required early Bruhita rides. There is a 'hotel' in San Cipriano, but it is very, very basic (think an 8x10' room with a bed, sheet, fan, lightbulb, and nothing else). I stayed there and was kept awake all night by roosters and chickens outside my window. The cold shower was really nice at the end of the hot day, but - really - only hardcore birding badasses should stay in town. 

Pance/Farallones (eBird Hotspot)
Pance is south of Cali and a bit removed from the other birding sites north and west of that city. It doesn't hold quite the same number of specialty birds as some of the other sites, but Pance still makes for a nice morning of birding, particularly for those continuing south from Cali to Cauca/Popayan as I advised in the introduction. Most of the birding is done from the narrow entrance road and between about 1,200 and 1,800 meters (3,900 and 5,900 feet). Endemics in the area include Colombian Chachalaca, Grayish Piculet, and Crested Ant-Tanager, and birders should also be alert for Moustached Puffbird, Andean Cock-of-the-rock, Golden-collared Manakin, Black-billed Peppershrike, and Scrub Tanager. El Balcón de Colibries (eBird Hotspot) is also worth a stop (small fee) and should afford views of Long-billed Starthroat, Crowned Woodnymph, and Fawn-breasted Brilliant, among others. It is also possible to bird a site called El Topacio (eBird Hotspot), but access requires prior communication with the Corporación Autonoma del Valle del Cauca (CVC), the local agency that administers Farallones. Even without the additional stops, there's more than enough at this classic Cali spot to keep everyone happy.

Scrub Tanager (from Tolima Department, but who cares, right?)

Tenerife
There is not much accessible páramo in the Western Andes, so Valle Visitors will need to cross the Cauca River Valley and climb into the Central Andes to explore that high-elevation landscape. The Tenerife access roads are in pretty poor shape and will require 4-wheel drive. Birders that can reach high enough can hope to find Shining Sunbeam, Purple-backed Thornbill, Golden-breasted Puffleg, Gray-breasted Mountain-Toucan, Tawny Antpitta, Blackish Tapaculo, Pearled Treerunner, Agile Tit-Tyrant, Red-crested Cotinga, Black-collared Jay, Black-crested Warbler, and other páramo birds. Though Tenerife is one páramo option, a better one is found at Purace National Park in adjacent Cauca Department (next post). If you have a few extra days, I would strongly suggest continuing the 3-4 hours south to experience Purace. It is really incredible and completely worth the trip!

Summary
Valle is a world class birding destination, and there is more than enough in the greater-Cali area to motivate 8 to 10 days of birding, depending on energy levels and enthusiasm. Accessing the area is easy and infrastructure everywhere but the Pacific Slope is pretty good. Several tour operators include Valle in their itineraries, but the area is safe and easy enough that birders arrive, rent a car, and explore most of the sites on their own. 

In the next 7-10 days, I'll be posting a similar account of my Cauca Department travels, so please be on the lookout for that!

Post #143 - The connection between Northern California pelagics and bike birding

My last 2 entries were VERY long and information-dense, so this will be something shorter and lighter - enjoy!

When I moved from Norwalk (east of LA) to San Mateo (south of SF) in May of last year, I resurrected my long-dormant steel steed for what I thought would be a fun and diversionary game of San Mateo County bike-birding. I had no goals beyond exploring my new surrounds, staying in shape, and seeing a few birds, and San Mateo's varied habitats and bike-friendly roads kept me totally engaged for the first year or so. But as bird returns diminished in my home county, I started venturing north into San Francisco County and south into Santa Clara County to look for species that I hadn't yet found closer to home. Those forays quickly engendered a 'county-birding'-type mentality, and it wasn't long before I found myself using eBird's 'Target Species' to help me plan strategic birding rides into neighboring counties. I'm now totally hooked on maximizing my cumulative Peninsula Bike List (258) and my lists in each of the constituent counties (see map below). County bike-birding is now a healthy addiction!

County bike-birding totals as of September 16, 2018

Even though I'm equidistant from San Francisco and Santa Clara, I bike to SF more frequently than I do to SC. That's because the wind in the Bay Area usually blows from the northwest and builds through the day. There's usually little-to-no wind when I leave at 6:30am, so there isn't much difference between riding northwest or southeast on the outgoing leg. But the return leg is a completely different story. What's often a 15 MPH tailwind behind me returning from SF is an equivalently strong headwind returning from SC. That headwind can be hugely impeding and turn what was otherwise a nice day of birding into a royal pain in the ass - and legs. I can only ride south when the forecast calls for very light afternoon winds. It's just not worth the headache otherwise. I'm hoping to do an overnight trip to SC (and Alameda) in October, so stay tuned for that.

Bay Area is expensive, but you get what you pay for!

It's here that I want to draw a parallel to pelagic trips. When strong winds are forecasted, the universal pelagic strategy is to run directly into them on the outgoing/morning leg. The hope is to reach the deepwater before those winds strengthen to the point that they make travel unnecessarily uncomfortable or impossible. It's then as simple as turning the boat downwind and surfing the building gales back to port. Those windy day courses are shown as yellow traces on the maps below. If we went any other direction than straight upwind on those windy days, we'd have a VERY bumpy and possibly painful ride home in the afternoon. Days with light winds (or - very rarely - with southwest winds) permit alternate routes, and examples of those are shown as green traces below. The bottom topography of the Monterey Seavalley offers more dichotomous options than does the straight shelf edge offshore from Half Moon Bay, but the idea is the same. 

Pelagic routes from Monterey (L) and Half Moon Bay (R)

This is what popped into my head on my ride to San Francisco this morning, so I figured I'd share that observation with you. Cars are largely insulated from wind governance, but the same cannot be said for bikes or boats. Here was today's main quarry, a Black-throated Sparrow that's been hanging out behind the VA Hospital in NW SF for the past week. I also poached a previously reported Red-eyed Vireo in Golden Gate Park. As great as those birds were, they were outdone by a Blackburnian Warbler others and I found while searching for the vireo. 50 miles and 3 birds for my Peninsula bike list - not a bad morning! 

Digi-binoc'd juvenile Black-throated Sparrow

Post #142 - Colombia - Eastern Andes - Boyacá

Quick note - This entry, like my previous on birding in Cundinamarca, is meant more as a permanent online reference than it is a quick blogpost, so it is VERY long and very detailed. This account - as well as summaries from all the places I've visited - will be archived in the International Birding Resources tab under the main banner photo.

Part 1 - Boyacá Logistics
Introduction
When to visit
Getting there
Where to stay
Guides

Part 2 - Boyacá Birding!
Key Boyacá birds
High Andean forests northwest of Tunja
Dry and oak forests accessed from Soatá - endemics!
Paramo and high elevation lakes above Sogamoso
Reserva El Paujil
Eastern slope at Santa Maria

Part 1 - Boyacá Logistics
Introduction
Boyacá is a Colombian department located just north of Cundinamarca and the capital district of Bogotá. It is situated in the Eastern Andes and is one of the most rugged Colombian municipalities. My impression is that Boyacá has been under-birded compared to other departments, but it's proximity to Bogotá guarantees increased coverage as more birders visit the recently stabilized country in upcoming years. I first visited Boyacá in July of 2018, and I am going use this post to write a bit about the spots that I birded on that trip. My experience was far from comprehensive, so do know there is way more to Boyacá than what I present here.

When to Visit (taken  verbatim from my Cundinamarca post)
Short answer: Late-November through early-March with January and February being best. June to August might work, but it's a bit of a gamble.
Long Answer: Rain - more than temperature - is the primary consideration when planning a visit to Boyacá (or anywhere in Colombia), and the graph below shows the average monthly precipitation in Bogotá (8,675ft / 2,644m). Though rainfall will vary with exact location and elevation, the indicated trends are generally reflective of the yearly rain cycle anywhere in the Colombian Andes, Boyacá included.

Precipitation is lowest December through February and June through August, but there is a big difference between those two superficially similar windows. That's because the weather on the high elevation páramo (above ~10,500ft / 3,200m) is usually decent between December and March but is much more variable from June to August.

For example, on my 7-week 2018 trip (June 15 to August 3, I made 10 independent day trips to the páramo in the Central and Eastern Andes across 7 different departments and suffered rain on each occasion. Not every trip to the páramo was a washout, but it was always wet and trails were in universally mucky/terrible shape. The birding was fine but less productive or enjoyable than it would have been between late-November and early-March, the true Andean Summer.

So, while the Andes as a whole have a bit of a break late-June through early-August, páramo elevations, the exact elevations that hold many of the unique and endemic birds birders want to see, could still be very wet. That window might work, but there's greater risk of high elevation rain than between late-November and early March (again, January and February are best).

As if that video isn't enough to convince you of the suggested window, I'll offer 2 more reasons. First, the usually hot Magdalena Valley in the western part of Boyacá is coolest late-November to early-March. The birding there is fantastic, and a visit to the Eastern Andes would be incomplete without some time in that abutting geography. Second, North American neotropic migrants are present late-October to early-April, so total trip lists will be higher than in June-August window.

Getting there
Tunja, Boyacá's largest city and capital, does not have an airport of significance, so the best way to access the department is through Bogotá's fully modernized international airport. From there, it's only 2-3 hours drive to reach Boyacá. Rental cars are available at the Bogotá airport, but be advised you'll probably need at least a high clearance vehicle - if not four-wheel drive - to reach most of the sites I will discuss. Renting an SUV is very expensive, and it is usually cheaper and easier to just hire a driver with his own vehicle instead. I suggest contacting Jovani Flórez at Solutions in Colombia (solutionsincolombia@gmail.com, whatsapp +57 311 227 1259 or +57 320 835 9104). My driver, Daniel, was from Solutions and was absolutely amazing - professional in every way. They are the 'go-to' for Colombian birding transportation and have experience carting birders around every part of the country.

Where to stay
I moved around a lot and utilized a variety of accommodations as I went. I will highlight these as I discuss the individual birding sites and from what bases (cities, hotels) they should be accessed.

Guides
Hernan Arias took me around Boyacá. He is absolutely incredible and comes with my highest recommendation (hedarar@yahoo.com, +57 318 3853676). He knows the birds amazingly well - vocalizations included - and speaks English fluently. He is a good leader, decision maker, and travel companion, and he has a flawless reputation throughout Colombia. He is based in Ibagué in Tolima Department but has experience guiding in all parts of the country. Call him. He's great, I promise.

Biologists Johana Edith Zuluaga-Bonilla and Diana Carolina Macana Garcia also accompanied us in Boyacá. They are members of the Asociación Ornitológica de Boyacá, and I'll point you to that organization's Facebook page for more information on Boyacá birds and birding. The photo below shows me, Hernan, Johana, and Carolina.

Part 2: Boyacá Birding!

Key Boyacá birds
Since Boyacá is so mountainous (minus a tiny sliver of Magdalena Valley in the west), bird diversity is generally lower than in departments with more lowland areas (where species diversity is highest) However, Boyacá is a great place to find Colombian endemics, at least 15 of which can be found in the department with some degree of predictability. I will mention or discuss all 15, though some with more specificity than others. Many of these can also be found in Santander Department to the north or Cundinamarca Department to the south. The Colombian endemics reliably found in Boyacá are:

Colombian Chachalaca (slopes on inter-Andean Valleys)
Blue-billed Curassow (spottily in forests in NW Colombia, notably El Paujil in Boyacá)
Bogotá Rail (highland wetlands in East Andes, specifically Boyacá and Cundinamarca)
Green-bearded Helmetcrest (East Andean páramo)
Black Inca (west slope of East Andes, specifically Santander, Boyacá, and Cundinamarca)
Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird (dry areas on west slope of East Andes, specifically Santander and Boyacá)
Indigo-Capped Hummingbird (Magdalena Valley into East Andes)
White-mantled Barbet (North Central Andes; west slope of East Andes)
Beautiful Woodpecker (North Central Andes; west slope of East Andes; Magdalena Valley)
Brown-breasted Parakeet (Spottily in East Andes)
Silvery-throated Spinetail (East Andes, specifically Boyacá and Cundinamarca)
Apical Flycatcher (Inter-Andean Valleys and adjacent slopes, one of the most widespread endemics)
Apolinar's Wren (East Andes, specifically Boyacá and Cundinamarca)
Niceforo's Wren (west slope of East Andes, specifically Santander and Boyacá)
Mountain Grackle (west slope of East Andes)

Blue-billed Curassow, Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird, Niceforo's Wren, and Mountain Grackle are the most important species as they can't be found in the more easily accessed Cundinamarca to Boyacá's south. The critically endangered curassow will require the most effort as birders will have to reach all the way to El Paujil in the western part of the department (or go to PNN Tayrona on the Caribbean Coast). White-mantled Barbet and Beautiful Woodpecker can also be found at Paujil, but those aren't super critical there as both are also found in the Northcentral Andes, specifically to the east of Medellin. The hummingbird, wren, and grackle are all found in the drier areas around Soatá (below), and special effort should be made to see those in that area.

Bogotá Rail, Green-bearded Helmetcrest, Black Inca, Indigo-capped Hummingbird, Brown-breasted Parakeet, Silvery-throated Spinetail, and Apolinar's Wren are equally or better sought in Cundinamarca to the south. If you miss any of these is Boyacá, there will be additional chances if you also bird Cundinamarca (recommended). Colombian Chachalaca and Apical Flycatcher are widespread and should be found without dedicated effort, either in Boyacá or Cundinamarca. For the rest of this post (E) = endemic.

Just as interesting are these true endemics are several near-endemics (or 'East Andean' endemics) shared with only neighboring Venezuela. With that country a 'no-travel' area at writing, these exclusively shared species are effectively Colombian endemics until that country stabilizes. I don't know exactly how many of these near-endemics there are, but I've shown the ranges of Coppery-bellied Pufflug, Pale-bellied Tapaculo, and Moustached Brushfinch to illustrate the point. For the rest of this post NE = near endemic, specifically shared with Venezuela.

Golden-breasted Starfrontlet (NE), Rufous-browed Conebill (NE), and Ochre-breasted Brushfinch (NE) are three other species that follow this Colombian-Venezuelan distribution, but there are certainly at least a few others. Given the close proximity to Venezuela, Boyacá is a great place to observe these shared Colombia-Venezuela birds. So is Cundinamarca (previous post).

Boyacá Birding Areas
With some of the key birds established, let's talk geography. My time in the department was focused in three areas: th High Andean forest northwest of Tunja (Villa de Leyva, Arcabuco), the dry areas around Soatá in the north, and the highlands and páramo outside of Sogamoso. I will give detailed and firsthand accounts of my time in those places, and I will also briefly mention two other spots that I didn't visit at the end. Those are Reserva Natural del los Aves El Paujil, a lodge in the Magdalena Valley in the western part of Boyacá, and Santa Maria, a small town on the eastern slope of the Eastern Andes. Each of those lowland areas presents an entirely different avifauna from what I sampled in Boyacá's highlands.

High Andean forests northwest of Tunja
With several very good birding sites and an abundance of lodging options, the area to the Northwest of Tunja presents a great starting point for any Boyacá birding venture.

El Peligro (eBird Hotspot, as generated from my checklist, the first for El Peligro)
El Peligro is a relatively new site that is being developed as an avitourism destination by the Corpoboyacá, a local government agency tasked with improving the department's ecotourism product. We arrived at El Peligro after a 70 minute drive from Villa de Leyva (more on this amazing town in a bit). Much of that was on dirt roads, and the final stretch to reach the trailhead will require a high-clearance or 4-wheel drive vehicle. The trail runs west from the starting point and generally follows the ridgeline with some rolling ups and downs. The trail had some very mucky spots when I visited in July, but it should be much drier in the December-March window. The birding was really nice, and the High Andean Forest yielded Golden-bellied Starfrontlet (NE), Glowing Puffleg, Streaked Xenops, Pearled Treerunner, Rufous Wren, Capped Conebill, and Yellow-billed Cacique. We heard Pale-bellied Tapaculo (NE), and others in the group saw Black Inca (E). As the Starfrontlet, Inca, and Tapaculo are the three keys birds at this site, it was a really productive walk. I did not see it on my visit, but Colombian Chachalaca (E) is almost certainly present as well as it has been eBirded from other nearby areas. The trail looks really steep in the photo, but only that section was challenging!

It is worth noting that the trail is designed as a one-way through-hike (your driver could wait for you at the other end), but I will do everything in my power to dissuade that idea as the westernmost section is treacherously steep and rocky. I was so focused on not falling that I did zero birding on that descent. Very fit and adventurous hikers can manage it (I did), but it's an accident waiting to happen for tour groups. My advice is for everyone to start at the eastern end and walk the trail until you feel like turning back. The constant turnover of feeding flocks will ensure different birds are observed going and returning. If the birding is quiet, be patient. You really need to find a flock for the action to heat up.

Reserva Privada Rogitama (eBird Hotspot)
Rogitama is a very interesting story. When owner Roberto Chavarro purchased the property in 1982, it was entirely 'potreros', or cattle pastures. In the 36 years since, Roberto has made reforesting the property his passion. He knows a ton about plants, and he has taken painstaking care to remake the forest in its original image. His is a truly remarkable effort, and you should ask Roberto to show you the photos of the property as his forest has changes over the years. It is amazing, and Roberto should be commended for his conservation efforts.

Located 10-15 minutes outside the small town of Arcabuco, Rogitama is probably the best place on planet earth to see Black Inca (E). I observed 5-6 individuals during my two hour visit, including one individual coming to the lodge feeders. Other species at those feeders included White-bellied Woodstar, Gorgeted Woodstar, Short-tailed Emerald, Andean Emerald, Buff-tailed Coronet, Lazuline Saberwing, and Brown, Lesser, and Sparkling Violetears. Walking the entrance road and minimal trails with Roberto, we found a subset of the birds that we found at El Peligro. There are basic accommodations at Rogitama (I think there's hot water, but double check if you contact Roberto), and meal service can be arranged if you want to eat on site. Otherwise just drive 10-15 minutes into Arcabuco for food. Contact information for Roberto/Rogitama is found on the sign depicted below.

Sanctuario Flora and Fauna (SFF) Iguaque (eBird Hotspot)
SFF Iguaque is a wonderful track of habitat located between Arcabuco and Villa del Leyva. The High Andean Forest is similar to that of El Peligro, so the species are mostly overlapping. Where the two areas differ is in walkability. Assuming one skips the steep western end of El Peligro, the walk is relatively flat. However, Iguaque's main trail immediately assumes a steep pitch that continues for miles. If one is willing to climb several thousand meters (which I suspect few birders are), the trail runs all the way to the high elevation páramo. As such, Iguaque is probably more a hiking destination for the very fit than it is a birding destination for tours and such.

Rather than bird that steep and very narrow hiking track, I'd suggest exploring the Iguaque entrance road. It's a wide, gradual uphill that offers much better visibility, and it could be very productive early in the morning. If I had one morning in the area I'd probably go to El Peligro, but the Iquaque entrance road is a viable and easier-walking alternative for those that prefer to stay nearer the car.

It is possible to stay at Iguaque as they have a beautiful onsite lodge, but you will need to haul your luggage up the bottom 1km of the hiking trail. Unfortunately, this is a common problem in Colombia. A 27-year old backpacker won't blink at the 1km hike to the lodge, but that uphill distance is an insurmountable obstacle for a foreign retiree dragging a rolling suitcase. The photo below shows - clockwise from top left - entrance sign/prices, administrative building, entrance road, lodge.

Additional notes on lodging - Villa de Leyva!
I've noted that there is basic lodging at Rogitama and (mostly inaccessible) lodging at Iguaque, but there are other options as well. I stayed in the very convenient Hotel Azul (Hotel Blue) in Arcabuco and found it fine for a quick overnight. It was a really convenient base from which to access all the described destinations, and there is an attached/adjacent and 24-hour restaurant for convenience. There's nothing for amenities, and it's more like a motel than a hotel. But the rooms are clean, the beds comfortable, and the water hot! They have Wifi, but I had to be in the restaurant for it to work well.

With all the lodging options I've presented, none compare to Villa de Leyva, arguably the most fun and charming Latin American town I've visited. There are all sorts of boutique hotels, so there's something for everyone. Restaurants, art galleries, and shops line the beautiful stone roads, and it would be easy to spend a full morning or afternoon exploring the picturesque town (photos below). I stayed at the Die Sonne Hospederia, and I highly recommend it. It's far from the only game in town but is fairly indicative of the sort of lodging the Villa de Leyva offers. Indigo-capped Hummingbird (E) can be found around Villa de Leyva, but it's very common in Cundinamarca to the south. Don't spend time looking for it if you're also going to Cundinamarca. The photos below show the main square and a street in Villa De Leyva.

As great as Villa de Leyva is, it does require a birder to traverse a rather long and bumpy stretch of dirt road (probably best in high clearance or 4-wheel drive) to reach Iguaque, Rogitama, and El Peligro. For example, it took us about 55 minutes to drive from Villa de Leyva to Arcabuco - and that was in a really nice SUV. That means birders will need wake up an hour earlier to reach El Peligro than if they stay in Arcabuco or at Rogitama. Villa is really cool, so I think it's worth spending a night. If I was going to stay multiple nights in the area, I'd probably spend one in Villa and one in/around Arcabuco. But I don't mind moving every night, and I like to spread out my tourism dollars.

One person everyone should contact in Villa del Leyva in Francisco Javier Peña Tovar at Ciclo Trip (www.ciclotrip.com, Facebook page, Instagram = ciclotrip). He's a super cool guy offers tours where he couples birding to hiking and biking! He knows the local birds well and can organize whatever sort of outdoor, birding, or adventure outing you would like. He would also be a good person to contact if you're thinking about visiting Patio de Brujas (below) as the place can be a bit tricky to find without some local help. Francisco speaks English fluently. Give him a call, you won't be disappointed. Shop: +57 578 732 1485, Cell +57 320 899 4442 or +57 317 435 5202.

Patio de Brujas (ebird Hotspot)
If you do stay in Villa de Leyva, the drier habitat of Patio de Brujas might be interesting. Located about an hour south of town, Patio is an ancient astrological site and one of the very few places in Colombia to see Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant. We found that bird around the monument and collected Short-tailed Emerald and Silvery-throated Spinetail (E) on the entrance road. With a general paucity of birds beyond those specialty few, Patio is probably best suited for hard-core listers who want to tick the Ground-Tyrant. Winds tend to pick up in the afternoon, so a morning visit is preferred. As most other areas present much better birding, try to hit Patio between other spots or in-transit. The two photos below show the restored astrological monument and the surrounding dry hills.

Spot-billed Ground-Tyrant at Patio

Soatá - Dry forests and endemics
Several hours (3-4) north of Villa de Levya is the picturesque mountain town of Soatá. Situated at the interface between some higher elevation oak forest and some lower elevation desert habitat/forest, Soatá will appeal most to hardcore listers looking to chase down Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird (E), Niceforo's Wren (E), and Mountain Grackle (E). I found Soatá's arid habitats a fun departure from higher and wetter habitats, and at times it felt like I was birding in Arizona or Texas!

Mountain Grackle (E), Pale-bellied Tapaculo (NE), Rusty-faced Parrot (NE), and Moustached Brushfinch (NE) can all be found in the oak forest above town, and the Carretera Onzaga hotspot is as good a starting point as any. However, for those interested in something a bit more interesting and personal, I'd suggest a visit to Finca La Labrandera. Owned by Etzel Javier Hernandez, the finca exactly abuts the Carrtetera Onzaga hotspot and offers a similar birding experience, albeit for a small fee. I think it's worth paying to visit La Labrandera as Etzel (etjaher@yahoo.com) is a wonderfully engaging personality. His property is beautiful, and accessing it will help in the quest for the grackle. I'm sure he'd be happy to show you around, and a bit of time with him will enrich your Colombia experience - provided you know a bit of Spanish! There is not yet an eBird Hotspot for La Labrandera, but you can map its exact location from the checklist from my visit.

While in Soatá, I'd also suggest a visit to Ramiro Medina's (ramedinal01@hotmail.com) Finca El Reposo on the eastern edge of town. Located squarely in the scrubby dry forest, El Reposo offers a rustic hiking trail on which I observed Apical Flycatcher (E) and heard Niceforo's Wren (E). The property surely hosts Cinnamon-bellied Hummingbird (E) and Colombian Chachalaca (E) as we saw both along nearby roads. Ramiro is currently improving his trail, but anyone in average shape will be able to manage it as it is. Again, there isn't yet an eBird hotspot for El Reposo, but here's my checklist so you can see exactly where the finca is. Ramiro is also a really nice guy, and I'll link this article (in Spanish) that highlights him, Etzel, and the efforts the two men are making to develop their properties as ecotourism and birding destinations. The top photo show the oak forest around Etzel's La Labrandera (left) and the scrub-desert around Ramiro's El Reposo (right). The bottom photo shows me with Ramiro (center) and Etzel (right).

For those that make the drive to Soatá, I will also suggest a stop at this stunning and easily accesible patch of páramo directly off of Road 55. Make a right onto the dirt but very well-surfaced Road 64 and drive a few miles into the habitat. We had Andean Teal, Green-tailed Trainbearer, Silvery-throated Spinetail (E), Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Andean Siskin, and others in the first mile or two along that road. I'm sure that great páramo birding can be found for at least the first few miles of that road. The photo below show the habitat along Road 64.

Sogamoso - Páramo and high elevation lakes
My biggest regret about my time in Boyacá was that it rained non-stop during my single day at Páramo/Laguna de Siscunsi and Lago de Tota (the 'Inclement Páramo Weather' video from above was made at Siscunsi on that rainy day). But that shouldn't deter you as I can imagine both areas would be absolutely stunning in better weather!

Páramo/Laguna de Siscunsi (eBird Hotspot)
To reach this pristine and stunning track of páramo habitat at over 12,000 feet of elevation, follow Road 62 for 31km from the Sogamoso Central Plaza (or 29km from the indicated Finca San Pedro) to reach a signed turnoff onto a dirt road. That turnoff is between km markers 33 and 34 on Road 62. From that turn, a relatively well-maintained dirt road winds its way up onto the páramo. A high-clearance vehicle would be best, but my local guides said they have taken taxis up the road before!

Regardless, of how you get there, I suggest the small trail that runs ~1.5km to Laguna Siscunsi. Along it you'll have good chances to find a variety of páramo birds including Andean Teal, Noble Snipe, Many-striped Canastero, Plain-capped Ground-Tyrant, Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Tawny Antpitta, Plumbeous Sierra-Finch, and a host of others. Most prized is the Green-bearded Helmetcrest (E), a fantastically styled Colombian speciality found only on East Andean Páramo. My group was buzzed by several of them - even in the wind and rain - but without a decent perched view it remained off my official Life List. There aren't a ton of birds at Siscunsi, but those that are present are high quality. The páramo is best birded first thing in the morning, so get an early start (maybe 5am) from Sogamoso to reach Siscunsi by 6:15-30. I'd spent 3 hours there, then head to Lago de Tota.

Lago de Tota (eBird Hotspot)
Located at 10,000 feet of elevation, Lago de Tota is Colombia's largest natural lake. My visit to Lago de Tota was marred by the same rain that washed out my Siscunsi morning, but I still have a decent idea of how the place works and what birds to expect. The best way to explore the lake is by boat, and piloted skiffs are available adjacent to the Police Station on the lake's eastern shore, roughly where the red pin is placed on the map above. We heard Apolinar's Wren (E) singing at several points along the marsh but were unable to get eyes on them with the constant the wind and rain. We did see Purple Gallinule, Andean Teal, Ruddy Duck, Large-billed Tern, and Yellow-hooded Blackbird. Birding the shore from the road after the washed-out boat trip, we added Noble Snipe, Grassland Yellow-Finch, and Andean Siskin. We did not hear or see Bogotá Rail (E), but I'm sure the wind was to blame for that as there are lots of eBird reports of that species from the lake. If you miss either the wren or the rail at Tota/Boyacá, there are other chances for both around Bogotá/Cundinamarca. The photo below show the view of some of Tota's marshes.

Though Siscunsi and Tota are close together and couple well, both must be birded first thing morning for best results, particularly the lake where high winds invariable materialize by 11am. My group hustled from Siscunsi to Tota to do both in the same morning. Had it not been pouring rain and miserable, I think we would have regretted not having more time at each. Better would be to have one full morning on the páramo and one full morning on the lake.

I'd spend the first night in Sogomosa, perhaps at the fun and convenient Finca San Pedro as indicated on the map. I'd leave that lodging at 5am the next morning to be at Siscunsi at 6:30. I'd spend most of the morning exploring that area before dropping to Tota for lunch and some shore-based birding. I'd also use that afternoon to find a local hotel and organize a boat trip for the following morning. After that boat excursion the next day, I'd hop back into the car and use that afternoon to drive to my next destination.

Reserva Natural de las Aves El Paujil (eBird Hotspot, website)
El Paujil is a reserve/ecolodge located in the western reaches of Boyacá. Run by Colombia birding and conservation entity ProAves (http://www.proaves.org/), El Paujil is located where the western slopes of the Eastern Andes flatten and join the Magdalena Valley. Elevation in the reserve varies from ~500 to ~ 4000 feet (~150 to ~1200 meters), and the 400+ species eBirded from the property reflect the incredibly bird diversity along that cline.

The signature species at El Paujil is the critically endangered Blue-billed Curassow (E, aka 'El Paujil'), a Colombian endemic with an estimated population of just 250 to 500 individuals. El Paujil was originally established to protect a significant fraction of the surviving curassows but has since evolved into a wonderful all-around birding destination. Of the Boyacá endemics mentioned above, Colombian Chachalaca (E), White-mantled Barbet (E) and Beautiful Woodpecker (E) can be found at El Paujil. Otherwise, Sooty Ant-Tanager (E) is the only other endemic that El Paujil offers, at least with any predictable frequency. Velvet-fronted Euphonia (E), for example, has been observed only a handful of times and should not be expected.

The biggest hurdle with El Paujil is access. It's an equally long, 7-hour drive from Tunja, Bogotá (in Cundinamarca to the south), or Medellin (in Antioquia to the west). Though I haven't been, I imagine it to be the sort of place a birder would want to spent at least 3 days and 2 nights. The reserve abuts the Río Ermitano, and it is possible to bird the Santander side of that flow to if department listing is your thing! El Paujil, looks like a really cool place, and I hope to visit at some point.

Blue-billed Curassow (from Tayrona in 2016)

Santa Maria (eBird Hotspot)
Located at ~2800 feet (~850 meters), Santa Maria is located on the Eastern Slope of the Eastern Andes. I did not make it to Santa Maria on my trip, but it sounds as if it afford access to a number of different elevations, particularly as one drops towards the Amazon basin to the east. It might work well to spend 2-3 nights at in Santa Maria and bird different locations each day. I do not know specific birding spots to the east of Santa Maria, but the Rio Upía, the river that forms the border with adjacent Casanare, is just an hour down the hill to the east. At just ~1000 feet (~300m), I image the birdlife would be very different from anything higher up on that eastern slope. So, Santa Maria is something to keep on your radar during your Boyacá wanderings. Santa Maria is probably the single best place to go in Boyacá if you're really looking to run up your trip list and get into some very different habitats. Minus the 3 endemics in Soatá (Chestnut-bellied Hummingbird, Niceforo's Wren, and Mountain Grackle) and the Blue-billed Curassow and other goodies at El Paujil, the birding in Boyacá's is pretty similar to Cundinamarca. As Boyacá is a less accessible from Bogotá, it makes sense that Cundinamarca/Bogotá have been more heavily birded to this point. But Santa Maria and surrounds are a real wild card and probably hold a lot of birds that can't be seen farther south or closer to Bogotá. I suspect the drive will take significantly longer that the indicated 3 hours 45 minutes - probably closer to 5 with Bogotá traffic.

OK, that's it for this installment. There will be additional departmental accounts coming, but these have taken so much work I might need need a break for a while!